
4-H Poultry Manual - Unit One
This publication is divided into sections that address different types of poultry projects. They include:
Here are some things you can learn in your poultry projects:
You can buy straight-run chicks (about half pullets and half cockerels) or you may buy all pullet chicks. When the chicks are about 9 to 10 weeks old, separate the pullets and cockerels. Keep the pullets and sell or use the cockerels for food.
Cross-bred chicks are used for broiler production. These chicks grow fast and produce broilers in 6 to 7 weeks. A pound of meat is produced on less than 2 pounds of feed. The principles of brooding broilers are the same as for other chickens.
Small broiler flocks are hard to sell. Processing plants prefer to buy large flocks. This is one reason why it is better to be in partnership with your parents on broiler production.
Keep the floor dry. Pine wood shavings make good floor litter. You should start with 4 to 6 inches of dry litter on the floor.
The chicken house should have windows or openings for fresh air at all times. Do not let the chicks get too hot or too cold.
Age of Chicks |
Temperature |
1 day to 1 week |
90o F |
1 week to 2 weeks |
85o F |
2 weeks to 3 weeks |
80o F |
3 weeks to 4 weeks |
75o F |
4 weeks to adult |
70o F |
Gas brooders will usually handle 500 to 1,000 chicks. Do not start more than 350 chicks under a 500 size brooder or more than 750 chicks under a 1,000 size brooder.
An infra-red heat lamp is ideal for brooding 100 or fewer chicks. Many 4-H Club members use this type brooder. They hang the lamps 16-inches above the litter.
It is hard to measure temperature accurately with a thermometer under an infra-red bulb. Approximate temperatures can be measured using a thermometer with the bulb end covered with black electrical tape. Watch the chicks closely to see that they are comfortable. When temperature is about right, chicks bed down in a doughnut-shaped ring or spread out evenly under the light. If they crowd together, it is too cold. If they crowd near the brooder guard, it is too hot.
If you need to increase the temperature, lower the bulb. Raise the bulb to reduce the temperature. After the bulb is adjusted for starting the chicks, it can be raised an inch once a week to provide the right temperature.
Provide two 1-gallon water founts or four 1-quart founts for 100 chicks. If trough-type waterers are used, provide at least one 3-foot waterer for 100 chicks. Allow at least ¾-inch of watering space per chick throughout the brooding period.
Feeders
You will also need feeders. Teach chicks to eat during the first day or two by putting feed on paper or in chick box lids.
Allow 1-inch of feeder space for each chick for the first 2 weeks, 2-inches up to 6 weeks, and 4-inches through 12 weeks.
Use small feeders. They usually measure 24 to 36-inches long. One feeder 24-inches long will take care of 50 chicks for the first 2 weeks. To calculate feeding space, count the length of both sides of the feed trough. A feed trough 24-inches long provides 48-inches of feeding space. As the chicks grow, change to longer and deeper feeders.
You can also use tube feeders. Use three tube feeders for each 100 chicks. Remember these two things about feeding chicks:
Disinfect using lye water, a strong detergent, or a commercial disinfectant solution. If you use lye water, be sure to ask your parents or county agent how to mix and use it. Disinfect equipment, but be sure to rinse it in clean water afterwards.
After the floor of your house has dried, put 4 to 6-inches of clean, dry litter on the floor. Arrange equipment so it will be ready when chicks arrive.
Cover the shavings inside the chick guard with paper for the first 3 or 4 days.
Fill the waterers so the water will become warm. Baby chicks do not like cold water.
You may wish to arrange your equipment as shown in the drawing.
Watering
Provide your chicks with clean fresh water at all times.
Wash the waterers at least once each day and disinfect them at least once each week to help prevent diseases.
Feeding
Start your chicks on a starter mash. Feed the starter mash for the first 6 weeks. Then change to a growing mash. Continue feeding the growing mash until the pullets start to lay.
Keep dirt and litter out of the feeders.
Vaccination
There are four diseases to vaccinate against: Marek's disease, fowl pox, Newcastle, and bronchitis. Your county agent or feed dealer can help you with this.
Sanitation
Keep your brooder house dry to prevent diseases.
Keep all visitors out of your brooder house. They often bring disease germs on their clothing or shoes.
Don't allow other chicks to mix with your chicks. They might spread a disease in your flock.
If your chicks get sick, contact your county agent. He will help you determine what the disease is and how to treat it.
Management
Make sure your chicks have plenty of feed and water and are comfortable. This means you should look at your chicks several times a day. Remove any sick or crippled birds at once.
Watch for feather picking. If feather picking starts, ask your county agent or feed dealer about debeaking the birds.
Records
Keep records al all times. Records tell you how well you have done with your poultry project. Keep a record of these things:
Ask your county agent or Extension home economist for the Grow Healthy Chicks letters and Publication 268, The Home Flock. These publications will help you grow better chicks.
At this stage, remove all roosters. Roosters will only eat feed, which is a waste. If you started with all pullet chicks, you will not have any roosters.
You may rear your pullets in a house, or you may turn them outside. If they are kept in the house during the growing period, make sure they have plenty of room. Crowded conditions will encourage feather picking or cannibalism (picking each other).
Give each pullet 3 square feet of growing space. Make sure your pullets get plenty of fresh air at all times.
Equipment
Your pullets are now large enough to eat from large feeders. You can use the same size feeders you will use in the laying house. Give each pullet 4 to 5-inches of feeder space. Give each pullet about ¾-inch of drinking space.
Sanitation and Disease Control
Allow no visitors in your chicken house. Do not allow your pullets to come in contact with other chickens, especially old hens.
Parasites infect chickens. The most common are mites and lice. They infest chickens any time of the year but are most common in the fall. Your county agent can suggest the best insecticides to use.
Ranging Pullets
If you let your pullets run outside, they can get by with less space during the growing period. For small flocks, you may use the same house they were brooded in by letting them run out during the day.
Do not let your pullets range on land that has had chickens on it during the past 2 years.
Provide some kind of shade for your pullets. It is very important to keep the waterers and feeders in the shade.
Protect your pullets from stray dogs and other animals.
Use the same kind of feeding program as with the confined rearing. Your feed bill may be a little lower because the birds will eat some green feed.
Keep records on your flock during the growing period.
The laying house should be comfortable. Keep the house dry and provide fresh air without getting the temperature too cold or too hot. Requirements:
Keep clean dry shavings or other material in the nests. This material should be 3 to 4-inches deep. Clean and adequate nesting material will insure clean eggs and fewer broken eggs.
Feed a laying mash when the pullets begin to lay. The laying mash may be a complete feed in mash, crumble, or pellet form. This complete feed is usually about 15 percent protein, and it is all the feed the hens need.
You may need to place oyster shell in small pans or hoppers throughout the house. Oyster shell helps make strong egg shells.
Chickens are peculiar creatures. They like the same feed day after day. Avoid changing feed. Make a habit of feeding your hens the same hour each day.
Provide plenty of clean fresh water. Clean waterers daily.
Gather eggs at least four times per day. This prevents breakage, dirty eggs, and helps to keep egg quality high. Store your eggs in a cool place. The best temperature for eggs is 50 to 55o F. Eggs are always stored with small end down. Do not store cracked and dirty eggs with clean eggs.
Sell only clean and uncracked eggs. Know in advance where you are going to sell your eggs. If you have a small flock, you may be able to line up several customers and deliver eggs once or twice a week. With a larger flock you may want to sell to a local grocery store.
In caring for a laying flock many things become routine or habit, such as feeding, gathering eggs, marketing eggs, and record keeping. There are many other important jobs, however, that you do every day:
The record form used to maintain performance and financial information is MCES Form 90. Contact your local 4-H Youth for a copy of this form or download and print it from this web site. Also ask for Monthly (MCES Form 183) and Yearly 4-H Poultry Records (MCES Form 184).
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Publication 255
Extension Service of Mississippi State University, cooperating with U.S. Department of Agriculture.
Published in furtherance of Acts of Congress, May 8 and June 30, 1914. RONALD A. BROWN, Director.
College of Agriculture & Life Sciences